Fun in the Berg

The Drakensberg mountains or uKhahlamba (the Barrier of Spears) is a 200-kilometre-long mountainous wonderland and was declared a world heritage site in December 2000.

Cath and I had booked a week there last year and were very excited at going on holiday together, just girls, looking forward to relaxing, sight-seeing, giggling a lot (of course) and eating a lot (of course).

The drive down went quickly it seemed, although we stopped a couple of times for the usual breakfast and coffee which we both love doing and another time just for coffee.

We arrived in the late afternoon, booked in at the Reception and were handed the keys to our chalet. We couldn't wait to see it. We drove down the mountain path, with a steep view on the one side and a forest on the other, and towards the end of it found our chalet which was to be our home for a week. All the chalets are 'A-line', built high on the slopes of the mountain.

(When we book into a place we have never been to it's always with slight trepidation that we insert the key in the lock for the first time.)

We walked in and explored. The views were magnificent from the lounge and bedroom and from the bedroom balcony , but inside the chalet felt a little old-fashioned, with dark furniture, but spacious all the same. We quickly unpacked, and went for a walk to discover our new surroundings. The hotel also had beautiful views and we soon found their terrace where they served light meals, coffee and drinks.  It was cold and wintery and the sharp icy wind stung our faces.

That evening neither of us felt like cooking and as we had noticed a little restaurant just at the entrance to our hotel, we decided to give it a try. Although it was quite close we drove there as we did not feel like braving the winding forest road in the dark on our way back, intrepid travelers that we are, (although I must admit that Cathy is a much braver explorer than I am.) When we arrived the restaurant doors were locked but we could see a couple of people inside. We knocked and a man opened for us, welcoming us in and telling us that they were really open, but that they had had a hold-up the night before and were taking precautions! We were the only ones in the restaurant all evening, feeling a bit anxious behind locked doors, but after a glass of wine or two, the fear subsided and we had a thoroughly good time. The food was not that great but as we were hungry, in a new place, anticipating a lovely week, that also did not matter much.

As we climbed into our little car we were glad we had driven there and not decided to walk. Sleepily and carefully we drove back to our chalet in the dark and were happy to lock the door behind us, feeling safe, and climb into our respective beds as we were tired, full and looking forward to what the morning would bring.

Goodbye Mauritius Until We Meet Again

The view from Plaisance Airport is beautiful and allows you to leave Mauritius with this picture still in your mind. Subdued at leaving but content at our fantastic holiday we sat at the airport admiring the mountains for the last time knowing that one day we would be back to once again bathe in the magic of l'Isle Maurice.

With thanks again to Monica for her campement and to Cathy for choosing us as her traveling companions.

The Last Days

Our holiday at the campement came to an end and we had decided to spend a couple of days at my aunt's boarding house. So, very reluctantly, we packed our bags and moved out of 'our' campement, said goodbye to Jocelyne and to the sea and off we went, just down the road to my aunt's. Cathy had her own little room downstairs and we had a lovely double room upstairs with a cosy balcony to sip wine and watch the waves, which we did quite a bit of...watching the waves, that is!

The views from our room were lovely and quite different to the campement. From our bed this is what we could see. It is a self-catering room with a little stove and kitchenette but we didn't use it as we had decided to give the food we had left to Jocelyne and just eat out for those last two days. On one evening we had a family supper with my aunt who, of course, served us a delicious chicken curry with lentils and rice. It was really nice to be with family. I had not seen them for a long time and there were some children that I had never even met.                                                                                                

 We slept well those two nights, listening to the waves which were not quite as loud as in the campement as they were not quite as close. 

The next morning we got up early to savor the view and the morning and after a quick read on our balcony, we went to have breakfast on the dining terrace.

Clement (who is tying up the blinds for the day and who has worked as a chef with my aunt for years and years) brought us steaming, strong coffee and Mauritian large, round, chewy, lovely rolls with butter and jam. I yet have to taste rolls as nice as Mauritian ones.

 The boarding house was quite busy with tourists in and out, wandering around, getting ready to do something for the day, wanting this, needing that, and generally doing what tourists do and that is being a pain in the butt! I was glad that we had had a lovely campement to ourselves for all those days and had not had to stay either in a boarding house full of tourists or an impersonal hotel. Somehow it would not have been the same.

Cathy smiles a lot, but particularly when there is food around!!!

On our last evening, we walked to the hotel close to the boarding house for dinner and to watch a show of sega dancers. Sega is the national dance of Mauritian creoles. On that particular night there was a buffet and the food was ample although not as good as we had expected and made, it seemed, particularly for tourists, so, mostly European food and nothing Creole, Indian or Chinese. At least they didn't serve chips and eggs for the UK visitors! The dancers though were full of passion and colour and danced with simplicity and joy. Later the guests were invited to join the dancers and dance the sega with them. Cathy had a ball and moved rhythmically and lithely to their music but her partner danced as stiffly as a broomstick.

Later that night, replete, danced-out, a bit tipsy, our heads full of the sega beat and colourful dresses, we wound our way back to the boarding house. It was pitch black on the street and apart from a few cars making their way home and a few stray dogs looking furtively at us, the streets were quiet and empty. Cathy went to her room happy to be getting into her bed and we sat one more time on our little balcony, in silence, appreciating the glow of the moon over the sea and filling our heads with this beautiful picture to take home with us to remember always.

Mahebourg Market on the Right Day

Mahebourg market day is a wonderful mix of colour, smells, cultures, languages, bargains, exotic foods and hot, spicy street food. It is busy and vibrant, filled with the locals who are always looking for a bargain as well as spices for their curries which are cheaper at the market, and tourists who throw themselves into the whole experience, some shyly, some raucously. 

We bought some inexpensive track pants for Tony, colourful earrings for me, beautiful vividly-coloured, soft, silky fabrics for Cathy who wanted them to decorate her apartment in a more Eastern way. Then we just spent a long time walking around and absorbing the peaceful energy of the place. People are not hurried, they are smiling, the women are feminine, they are friendly and often stop and ask you where you're from and what you think of Mauritius.

 

The market is set by the sea and the views from some spots are really stunning with the mountains in the background. The whole atmosphere is one of tranquility amid what looks sometimes like a bit of a chaotic mess.

 Cathy decided to try a dhalpurie from the vendors, which is Indian flat bread made with ground split peas or lentils into which is crammed hot, seasoned, usually red lentils. She took a bite and she said that immediately she felt as if her head and eyes were on fire, that's how hot it was and she had asked for a 'mild' one. But it's so good that you quickly get used to the hotness even though your tongue feels like it will never be the same again. Later in the holiday she was even brave enough to have another one.

 After the market we went back into the middle of town and found a Chinese restaurant and welcomed a cold beer followed by a delicious dish of noodles and chicken with vegetables.

We sat for a long time just looking out at a different type of life, loving it, loving the people and feeling quite at home in this very different setting.

We took the bus home with very noisy and excited school children already on it but who were very  quickly told by the conductor to stop their racket as there were 'visitors' on board. Very impressive. We were obviously the 'visitors' and got some dirty looks from the children but tried to give them sweet apologetic smiles as if to say: 'not our fault that you got reprimanded!'

Lunch with my Niece

Cathy had hired a car for a couple of days to get to her meetings and on one of those days we went to my niece for lunch, at her beautiful campement in Trou d'Eau Douce which is on the East Coast of the island. We were looking forward to seeing her and spending a bit of time with her and seeing her lovely home. Tony looks a bit thinnish and I look a bit fattish, a bit Laurel and Hardyish! The view from her campement is breath-taking and we had two lovely curries that her cook had prepared with rice and lentils and glorious French wine.When we arrived and drove through her gates we were confronted by a huge forest of palm trees and quite a few paths leading to different places with no real markings to tell us in which direction the main house was. She has a huge property and one really could get very lost among the palms and paths and forest but she came to fetch us on her quad bike. She welcomed us with a coconut each, opened at the top with a straw ready for the sipping. It was cold and refreshing and sweet and went down well after a hot, long and sometimes hairy drive. (Mauritians drive fast and their roads are narrow...not a good mixture!) We sat in her lovely thatched outdoor lounge and marveled at the incredible view all around us. So still and peaceful and islandy, not at all what we were used to in Johannesburg.

We chatted and caught up with news and Tony was able to get to know her a bit better which was nice for them. I had first met her on my honeymoon when I was 21 years old and she was 2 years old. She was a beautiful little girl then and she grew up to be a beautiful woman.

Next to her outdoor lounge was her outdoor dining room and that is where eating and drinking was done by all, followed by an espresso and a walk in their forest, after oodles of anti mosquito cream was smothered all over our bare parts. Tony decided he would rather sit and watch the boats and the sea and finish his wine peacefully without getting eaten by the insatiable mosquitoes. A very good choice!

After our hot lunch and hot walk Cathy had a cold swim in their pool and said she felt much better after that. Mymind boggled a bit after being shown their huge house and garden and grounds with every available comfort and luxury as well as a large catamaran moored a little way away, where they were going to celebrate the full moon with friends that weekend with loads of lobsters and presumably good wine and champagne. I have never experienced this kind of life as I come from a simple background and I marveled at the possibilities that money can offer but at the same time was quite happy and content with my own set of simpler possibilities. We had a lovely time and full, happy and French wined we made our way back to our campement at Pointe d'Esny and were all glad to settle quietly on our little porch and let a wonderful day end, while watching darkness slowly settle over the ocean.