A Smelly Neap Tide

Coming home one afternoon and coming down the drive to our campement, we were surprised by a very strong fishy, seaweedy rather unpleasant and pungent smell. We had no idea what it could be but going onto the porch we were suddenly awe-struck by what looked like rocks that had suddenly appeared out of the sea. The sea had retreated to uncover these smelly rocks covered by slimy seaweed. We asked Jocelyne why the tide was suddenly so low when it hadn't been all the time we were there and she explained that it was a neap tide and that it only occurred twice a month and we were lucky to see it. We didn't feel that lucky as the smell was really bad and the thought of going to sleep that night inhaling rotten fish was not particularly enticing! But little by little we got accustomed to it, and just like in life, where you get used to almost anything, even the bad things, it soon became part of our surroundings  so much so that we even sat outside, had a glass of wine and took 'photos of this strange sight.

I sat outside for a long time, silently, sipping wine and looking out and marveling at how this huge expanse of water which was full and so close to the campement yesterday can today look so far and diminished and how it uncovered and revealed all these hidden rocks and how much more lies beneath the ocean that no-one has seen.

After a while the moon appeared and the light changed to a dimmer, subtler and more gentle and romantic hue and I watched as the ocean began to reflect the light of the moon. All seemed quiet and subdued, and everything felt as if it was exactly as it should be. A perfect painting.

The moon? What moon?

Behind you, Tony, behind you!

We watched people walking on the beach past our campement, also curious to see what a neap tide looked like, and the moon became brighter and brighter and cast a more and more mysterious glow onto the ocean. Even though this picture is a little blurry, I love the light of the moon on the water and the peaceful mood twilight brings.

From the porch Tony and I accepted the kindly invitation our bench had offered and we moved gratefully into its welcoming energy to end our evening surrounded by beauty and spirit.

Magical Mahebourg

Many mornings we awoke to a calm, still and silent sea, the sun not quite fully awake, like us, but lazily rising, and the wind still sleepily deciding whether to blow or not. A mug of coffee on those quiet mornings, with us peering out to eternity, felt that right there and then, this was all that was needed for perfect serenity and happiness. 

On this particular morning we decided to go and explore the nearest town to where we were, called Mahebourg. Jocelyne had told us there was a market there and that it was a busy, bustling, interesting little town. So Cathy and I had our breakfast (Tony had had his hours before) of a glorious French cheese called 'Caprice des Dieux" which translated means "whim of the gods". Well, I don't know about the Gods but that cheese is the best I've ever tasted, creamy, tangy, tasty, and sooooo.....French. We had it with baguettes, butter, delightful country ham (probably imported from Woollies in SA) and French mustard. Mmmm the food, the setting, the mood, the company...all just perfect. After a bit of 'money-counting' and organising, we set off to the top of the driveway, and into the road, and waited for a bus. After having to refuse many insistent taxi drivers who told us that we would be so much more comfortable in their cars, the bus finally clattered up to us and stopped for us to get in with all the locals. It was lovely to hear different languages, laughter, kids chatting excitedly, teenage girls always looking to see who's looking at them, and just a mixture of beautiful people on an ordinary day for them, on a beautiful island.

In Mahebourg we walked all over and went to see their big revered Buddha where many a prayer is said and a candle is lit and where you can buy little oil lamps and burners and anything you need to enhance your prayers and worship. We walked along the jetty to a large pavillion jutting out of the sea from which there is a tremendous view of the mountains. 'They' say that if you look down into the clear sea you can see many beautiful tropical fish. But 'they' said that too late as we heard it when we had already left Mauritius!! It is in Mahebourg that the first colonisers set foot on the island several centuries ago and it is the perfect representation of a typical Mauritian village. Multi-cultural, vibrant, colourful, busy, vibey, shops selling all kinds of touristy things from baskets, to beads, to model ships, and street peddlers galore accosting you gently to tell you their story and show you their wares. They must be used to tourists from SA as the first thing they tell you when they come up to you is that they are peaceful and not dangerous!

After walking and getting hotter and hotter and more and more tired and in desperate need of coffee, we found a little shop that looked promising as it had what looked like delicious cakes in the window. We ordered coffee and cakes but the coffee came in a ready made powder containing coffee granules, powdered milk and sugar altogether and the cakes were doughy and much too sweet. But being thirsty and peckish and eating in such an exotic setting we drank and ate and not a complaining peep was heard from us.

We found out that it was the wrong day for the market as market day is on a Monday, but we filled our day with so many other interesting sights and smells and vibrant colours. We loved looking at the outside of flats and little houses, which to us was alien architecture but so interesting Down little alleyways and up walkways we went, in and out of shops selling colourful clothes and 'pareos' (a large piece of colourful  fabric to tie around you after swimming, worn by women as well as men). I loved the shops selling Chinese pottery and beautifully painted glassware and was tempted to buy all sorts of things. We walked around and felt free and unthreatened which, when coming from Jo'burg, is so liberating. We went home feeling full of new experiences, giggles and laughter. 

Beautiful Blue Bay Beach

Most days in the morning, Cath and I took a walk to Blue Bay which is a splendid public beach with calm water, just down the road (a brisk 25 minute walk) from our campement. There are many restaurants around the area as well as an hotel. There are people selling their wares, small informal shops selling samoosas, dhal, gateaux piments, beer and general 'hot' local Mauritian street food, all very alive and bustling. People come here to spend the day on the weekend and public holidays, bring bags of food and generally have a wonderful day swimming, laughing, socialising, singing, dancing (the sega) and eating. So lovely to watch. Necklace sellers abound and all are smiley, sweet, chatty, gentle, and unassuming and don't push if you are not ready to buy anything.

Cathy swam while I watched her and the people around me. We had our favourite tree which was so thick and luxuriant that no sunshine could penetrate (suited me well as I'm allergic to the sun). On one of the days we decided to have a beer and went to one of the little shops. We ordered two beers and were handed two one-litre bottles. As they had already opened the bottles we couldn't give them back and we didn't quite know how, at 11 am in the morning, we were going to down a litre of beer each. However, we managed quite easily, giggled stupidly, chatted aimlessly and when we were ready to get up and walk home, we found that the sand and our legs had suddenly  become much softer. We wound our way back to the road, giggling hopelessly and managed to walk home, which sobered us up somewhat.

On another morning we visited my aunt, Cathy's great aunt, Tante Solange de F, who owns and still runs her own boarding house next to Blue Bay. We both have a deep respect for her, she is intelligent and open minded and you can chat to her about anything at all. She's great! We all went for a walk and got caught in a sudden downpour and were forced to take shelter. The downpour only lasted a few minutes and we resumed our walk enjoying the wetness and coolness of everything, as well as the fresh, clean air the rain had left.  

On the way to Blue Bay we passed many villas, campements, dwellings and shacks all seemingly mixed up together. You find a luxury villa on the one side and on the other side of the street, a shack, further along a modest dwelling and further still a luxury, huge campement. Everyone seems to live peacefully together, rich and less rich, modest and poor. It's a pleasant feeling of acceptance by everyone. Had I stayed longer and been involved in the politics though, I might have found that the situation was maybe not quite so idyllic, but I don't know.

I particularly like the view of an azure sea through this fence and am happy to allow myself to believe that life is tranquil and peaceful.

Coconuts Bread and Fish

All during the night we listened to the restless wind, and the waves somehow seemed louder and closer. We had no idea what the outside looked like and how far the sea was from the campement and that made it all scarier. I must admit during that first night I lay in bed feeling very small and at the mercy of the elements that felt so forceful and angry. The blessing was that I didn't hear the mosquitos buzzing around me but I sure felt them feeding on my blood, just to add to my agitation.

I must have finally fallen asleep because I awoke to the morning light peeking through the curtains and a blissful calm. The wind had changed to a breeze and the sea was grey and quieter. We jumped out of bed and went straight outside to explore our surroundings, and not really to our surprise discovered that the sea was right on our doorstep. It was magnificent. Although the sky was grey with thick clouds and the wind cool, it was all so much more than we could have ever wished for and we had two weeks to revel in it. Yaaay!

Just outside the campement there were coconut trees heavy with coconuts and I can just read Tony's thoughts while he is looking up at them: "I absolutely need to find a way to get these down to eat?" He found a way and had a coconut a day, they were ripe and delicious. First you drink their milk and then you break it completely open and eat the flesh. Mmmmm.

The view of the sea from the porch was unobstructed and it seemed to go on forever and to my absolute delight there were two benches waiting for me to join them.

Tony says: "look, there's the sea!"

It was quite chilly outside but it didn't stop us from making coffee and having it on the porch, looking out.

Cathy has a smug little look on her face while enjoying her coffee and knowing that there are fresh baguettes coming (an older man on his bicycle comes every morning, selling bread and baguettes to each campement, he rings his bell and we go to the road to choose our bread for the day...how luxurious, yet simple!) We have a chat and come back arms laden with two big, fresh, oven-smelling baguettes. What a way to start the day.

Jocelyne arrives and we tell her what we would like for dinner and she gives us a list of what she will need to make it. She also tells us that there is a fisherman who comes regularly to the campement to sell his freshly caught fish. Excitement! He comes and we buy an octopus for Jocelyne to make a curry, with (of course) rice and lentils. We are happy!

Later we walk up the driveway to the road, and there, many busses and taxis come past, you can take your pick. For our first outing to the shops, being the brave, fearless, chance-taking travellers that we are, we take a taxi and 10 minutes later the taxi driver drops us outside a supermarket where people are milling around, chatting, chilling, shopping, on bikes, on foot, barefoot, tourists, locals, Creoles, Indians, Chinese, Muslims, whites, dogs. We walk around letting this new culture seep warmly into us and examine all the exotic and different foodstuffs, fill our nostrils with all the spicy aromas and our trolley with appetising food for the week. We take a taxi back and make a mental note that we will definitely try the bus next time.

After our shopping experience Cathy retires to her room to send a few emails, or rather try to as the signal is erratic, Tony retires to his (our) bedroom to do his Karate training, and I, feeling contented and peaceful, go and sit on one of the benches outside to look out and dream.

Later I try to send some SMSs and I find that the best reception I can get is if I walk up the driveway, stand in the middle of the road and hold my cellphone up high above my head. Looking out for cars and feeling more than a bit silly, the SMSs get sent.

Our Home in Thrashing Winds next to a Stormy Sea

It was still dark and the drizzle had turned to a strong, wetting rain when we arrived at 'our campement' and by now the wind had started to howl. The Mauritius roads are narrow and dark, especially the coastal roads, and we had to put our complete trust in our taxi driver hoping that he knew where he was going and hoping he would find the place from the address we had been given ie: "it's the third 'campement' next to this guest house", (I forget the name of the guest house). Mauritians are extremely relaxed about things and to me who is particularly organised, (to the point of being obsessed) I found it difficult to get into that way of being. But it's such a lovely and easy way of life that it didn't take me long to go along with it making me realise that I often get stressed for things that don't matter at all.

Our driver finally turned into a driveway where, on the porch, Jocelyne (our maid) and her husband were waiting for us. They were in a bit of a hurry to get home to their supper (most times rice and lentils or beans) as they'd been waiting for us for a while, so Jocelyne gave us a quick tour of the 'campement', showed us the kitchen and the pots of food that she had cooked for us, which looked so homely and welcoming and smelled so good, and then, showing us how to lock all the doors, she handed us the keys, said she'd be in the next morning, and off she and her husband went. They live just across the road from the 'campement', so it was not far for them to get home.

We were left standing in the middle of the large lounge/dining room with our suitcases and keys in our hand, and after a polite scramble to choose our rooms, we finally were able to take a deep breath and start relaxing and exploring. Tony and I chose the double room with en suite bathroom, overlooking the sea, and Cathy chose a single cosy room with a large desk and also a superb view of the beach and sea beyond.

First things first, we were dying to tuck into a delicious rougail de saussices (sausage stew cooked in tomato, garlic and onion), Basmati rice and lentils cooked with onions, garlic and ginger, so Cathy quickly figured out the gas stove and after having lit it to start waming our food, we toured the 'campement'. We went outside in the rain and wind and we could hear the sea thrashing around but could hardly see it, just a few white crests, it was pitch black everywhere and we couldn't go far for fear of the unseen unknown. The salty, warm, wind and smells of the Mauritian sea and food, now wafting through, were indredibly familiar to me and they brought back instant memories of my first husband, Cyril, and our honeymoon and many visits to the island while we were together. For a while it all felt strange, sad and melancholic to be back. I stayed alone for a while letting these memories gently surround me, knowing that they lived in my heart.

Inside we laid the table and dished up our lovely food. The tastes were typically Creole Mauritian, hot, spicy, aromatic, and we felt  happy and excited at the prospect of waking up in the morning to an unknown view and falling asleep listening to the wind and the sea so close by, sounding as if it were right outside our window. We had bought a bottle of wine at the Jo'burg airport and we opened it to celebrate our first evening of what was going to be an unforgettable holiday. This is a moment I could relive very easily. (Merci Monica).

Heading off to an Emerald Island

I feel that our Cape Town trip has been pretty well documented and I am really happy to have it on my blog. This is all new to me (blogging) and I'm loving it, the creativity of it, and realising that it's like having my very own scrap book on line. In years to come (whatever's left for me) I will look back on this blog and enjoy our trips all over again. And when I'm in heaven ('cause that's where I'm going...it's the only place where there's a Woollies!) maybe others will still enjoy it (or delete it.) It's also a way of sharing trips and thoughts and 'photos with whomever is interested and wishes to take a peek.


I have now decided to document our trip to Mauritius in 2007 because it was absolutely heavenly, such an unexpected gift and so lovely to be altogether in a very familiar paradise that I had not been to for years and that Tony had not yet discovered.


It all happened when a person that Cathy knows asked her to do a workshop for her in Mauritius in return for 2 weeks free accommodation in their 'campement' (beach cottage). This campement has four rooms and Cathy was invited to bring along whomever she pleased. So after much thought (about bringing some of her friends and having a wild time) she invited us. That was a lovely surprise. Thank you Cathy!


So here goes, a tribute to a beautiful holiday, beautiful people, a beautiful island, family and memories for ever.


We were all ready and had been packed ages before, when our best friends came to fetch us to take us to the airport.
I was thrilled to be going back to Mauritius and be breathing that well-known hot and humid air again and immersing myself in memories of long ago. I still have quite a bit of family there (in-law) and I was feeling really pleased to know that I was going to see them again and catch up a bit on old times.

We booked our luggage in and did all the things that everyone else does, ie wander around, look at the duty-free shops (which are more expensive than anywhere else), look at other passengers wondering which ones are terrorists, look at books and magazines (should I buy one for the flight...no...flight too short) and....have very expensive coffee! I felt like a kid waiting for Christmas...I wanted to just get on that 'plane and take off...let's go, go, go!

Well at last we were on board, hand baggage safely settled in the overhead racks and us safely tucked and belted up in our seats. I awaited the take off eagerly as I love take off although I'm always a bit nervous, but a kind of excited nervous. Cathy was less eager as she is scared stiff and her face tells the story.

Brace yourself Cath, here we go!

It was a lovely flight, short, just the right amount of time to be in an aeroplane, time enough to enjoy what you are served to eat (if one can enjoy airline food at all), time enough to anticipate getting there and time enough to observe the other passengers.

When we landed in Mauritius and the 'plane doors opened we were suddenly hit by hot, humid air that is full of exotic spicy smells and the sweat immediately starts forming little droplets on your forehead (very alluring). You know your make up is going to go one way!

In the terminus there was a happy mixture of people, tourists, locals who are Creoles, Indians, Chinese, whites and there were two Muslim men facing East on their knees saying their prayers to Allah. It was not what we were used to seeing in SA and we found it very sacred and I took it to be a blessing for us.

We recuperated our baggage and headed off towards the exits where we looked for a taxi. Not having been to Mauritius for a long time and hearing stories about how the taxi drivers take tourists for a ride, (good pun), we asked a few taxi drivers how much they would charge us to get to our destination. We were told the same price each time so we hopped into the first one we had asked and headed off into the dark and the drizzle, to our 'campement' where we knew there was a meal waiting, having been prepared by Jocelyne who was going to be our cook and cleaner during our holiday. What absolute luxury!