A High Peak, a White Beach, Chips & Coffee

About 8 kms from us is Chapman's Peak Drive which goes from Noordhoek to Hout Bay along a winding road with a cliff on the left and overhanging rocks, and a cliff on the right which drops into the sea. Quite a scary ride and not for the vertigo sufferers and not to do on a windy day. It is a toll road and if you go right through to Hout Bay you have to pay, but if you go up to the toll and turn around and go back, then it's free. Quite a few people do that and they bring a picnic or do it just for the sheer beauty of it.

We went on a peaceful Sunday while the wind was quiet, as it had howled for two days running, and while it was sunny-skied and warm. We stopped at all the spots where one can 'park and look' and took in that marvelous scenery.  We decided that next time we would definitely bring our picnic chairs, sandwiches and coffee and just sit there and chill for a while longer.

It is so high it feels like you can see forever and quite frightening as it also feels like the sea and the height are almost luring you, gently whispering 'jump, jump'! Anyway, I didn't jump, nor did Tony as he was too busy looking through his binoculars at the little boats beyond, and I had my blog to write! Not a good day to jump.

 After that we decided to go for a walk to Noordhoek Beach which is just at the bottom of Chapman's Peak and stretches all the way from Noordhoek to Kommetjie. 

Many people come and ride their horses here as the beach is ideal to get a long gallop and to exercise the horses. We walked to the ocean which starts way down when the tide is out, leaving lots of shells and empty mussel shells lying all over the beach. That day there were many surfers in their wet suits enjoying the waves which were high after the strong winds the days before.

There are huge boulders on the beach and it is scary to think that they have probably fallen down from up high on the mountain above and when you see how small a person is compared to them, you hope that you are not at the bottom, on the beach and in the way of the next one that is about to fall. I had a bit of a sick thought wondering how many bodies were lying under that one ! ! !  

After our walk we were a bit peckish so we went to the Coffee Bean which is a little coffee shop in Noordhoek with lovely views, and sat and had a coffee and shared a plate of crispy hot chips. Yum, lovely. On days like this I want to stay out all day and not go home, it's such fun to be outside doing different lovely things, as compared to sitting in the flat in Jo'burg being bored to death with nothing to do, or doing the same things and going to the same places over and over again. We got home later on feeling full and contented and fell asleep that night with lovely views in our thoughts.

Our First Cape Holiday

When we were more or less settled in our flat, Tony and I booked a five-day holiday for all of us with our time share and we were looking forward to be going on our first holiday in our new area. The place we went to is called Port Owen Marina on the West Coast just past Langebaan. We had a beautiful chalet overlooking the marina, which is filled with luxury yachts proudly bobbing up and down as if to say 'look at me, look at me', and surrounded by huge weekend mansions saying more or less the same thing! Every evening we walked right around the marina looking and marveling at the abundance.

We found little shops selling bric-a-brac and coffee, and a few km away, a heavenly resort where you sign yourself in and put money in a 'trust' box and write out your own receipt, all organized neatly in a little hut. There is a large dam with many different types of birds and a few bird hides scattered around the dam where you can sit quietly and observe and especially listen. Cathy and I walked up a little road which suddenly opened out onto a pristine deserted beach which went on as far as the eye could see. It felt like we were the first ones to discover this marvelous spot. We stayed a short while, breathing it all in.

Right in front of our chalet there were two geese who kind of thought this was their home too, and they slept there at night and in the morning the ground was full of goose-poo, so Tony decided that he would scare them off once and for all. Of course, they hardly paid any attention to him at all and were back moments later honking and protesting loudly! 

 Joel could only join us on the Thursday and we went to Bokkum Laan which is a road filled with Bokkum hangars where these little fish are hung to dry and eaten dried and salted, like biltong. We saw pelicans and flamingos and found a little art gallery where Cathy bought a lovely painting of the area by the local artist.

I had bought two little paintings at the coffee shop earlier, painted by the people who worked in the shops around there, quite naive paintings but I loved them and they hang in our bedroom now reminding us of our first Cape holiday.

 We sat in a little restaurant at Bokkum Laan, overlooking the river, quiet and picturesque but particularly priced for tourists, and we decided that it was a bit of a rip-off, so Cathy and I had coffee and cold drinks but Joel wanted to try one of their dishes and was rather disappointed when he got a large plate with 6 small scallops in the middle for an exorbitant price. That riles me! 

On our way back home we stopped at a beautiful little fishing village called Pater Noster and watched the fishermen reeling in their nets filled with small fish. We had a lovely lunch there in a garden behind a shop in the main road. Lovely food prepared with care in a tranquil setting.

The view at night from our jetty was gorgeous. Each house around the marina has its own jetty and each bungalow at the resort as well, and at night each jetty is lit up with a blue light making the setting quite fairy-like. The sunsets were wonderful but the wind came up in the early afternoon most days making it sometimes impossible to sit on the veranda.

Cathy on the jetty, taking in the sun, pregnant, radiant, happy, contented and beautiful.

  

It has been done!

I can't believe it. we live in Fish Hoek, in the Cape, (in the wind), in a spacious flat, feeling healthier and stronger, Tony feeling better here than in Jo'burg, near Cathy, awaiting our grandchild. Wow. I am showered with blessings and I open my arms wide and give thanks. Some very wise saying informs us that there is a time for everything, a time to cry, a time to grieve, a time for sickness, a time to give, a time to receive, etc. etc. I feel that it is my time for receiving and I gratefully accept my gifts.

As I sit here at my desk, instead of looking at trees and birds (which I do miss a lot) I see a quiet street with houses and blocks of flats, then a mountain with houses, then an ever-changing sky from cloudy, to rainy, to bright blue, to downright black and foreboding. Now and then I see people walking, strolling, pushing prams, walking barefoot to the beach holding just a towel, old people with canes walking to the nearest shop, people really seem to 'live' here and are so much freer than we were in Jo'burg, less threatened, less violent crime, easier, friendlier. And the bonus...I can hear the sea from where I sit and from my bed at night.

Fish Hoek is in a valley and therefore I see mountains from all the windows in the flat, the clouds sometimes tumbling softly over them bringing a soft drizzle or being blown with incredible force across the sky, bringing days of incessant, gale-like wind.   We have just had a few days of beautiful weather, warm, no wind and last night the wind came up, fierce and cold and although today the sky is blue and the sun is hot, the wind is strong and cold. It's something to get used to but we both love it...thank heavens! otherwise we would really be in the wrong place as Fish Hoek and the far South Peninsula are renowned for wind.

The move went well but leaving was painful and sad. We spent our last night with Ig and Nina and made our way early the next morning with sobs and tears and hugs and promises to see each other soon. I kissed Oscar with sadness welling up inside me, as at that stage I was not sure if I would ever see him again.

For the first hour of our trip, we were sad and quiet, with me quietly sobbing but as we got further and further from the traffic and Jo'burg we forced ourselves to perk up and become aware of this huge adventure that we had begun, moving and starting a new life in a new place, in a new flat. Slowly we got more and more excited at the prospect and also at the prospect of stopping for breakfast, which we did, not too far down the track and after (for me) bacon and eggs and coffee, we felt better.

We stayed once again at Rooidam in the Karoo, a self catering cottage on a large sheep farm owned by lovely people. The moon was full and we went for a long walk accompanied by the farm dogs who recognized us from the last time in January and welcomed us and walked quietly with us under this glorious moon with the only noise breaking the deep silence being a few birds quietly finding their spot for the night.

We slept like logs and were off again next morning very early. There was snow on the mountains as we arrived closer to the Cape, what a beautiful sight. The drive was wonderful and it was wonderful to spend two days at Cath and Joel who made us feel welcome, wanted and loved. The movers brought everything two days later and it all went smoothly, nothing missing, nothing broken, just a lot of work and sore backs, unpacking 37 large boxes. But looking back, it was smooth and we are here and settled.

The Start of a New Life

It has begun!

A couple of Sundays ago we were getting ready to put our flat on show and the agent told us the showday would be from 11am to 5pm and that we could not be in our flat during that time. We had decided to go out somewhere nice and have breakfast and coffee and just walk around, browse through book shops, watch people, maybe go to the Flea Market which is open on a Sunday. We were dreading having to come home after 5pm to be perhaps told that no-one had made an offer or that perhaps someone had...very confusing assortment of feelings. We were also most unhappy with the idea of strangers' critical eyes and dirty shoes having been in our beautiful space while we were out. Not a nice feeling...somewhat invasive.

But...three days before our showday, a lady who lives in our building heard that we were selling, came up to have a look, loved the flat, made a very fair offer and we accepted...just like that...leaving us rather shell-shocked! When she left we suddenly both felt a little panicked to think that we would not have a home and probably sooner than later. Of course no showday happened (unhappy agent) but we were thrilled (happy, happy us).

The buyer's bond still needs to be approved and from 'it has begun' it could very well be 'it will begin' but she said she was very confident that it would go smoothly.

So we are waiting for that approval, but in the meantime our minds are slowly getting used to the fact that we are leaving our city, our nest, our best friends, my school friend, and my brother/sister in law and everything that is so familiar to us. Our whole past.

It feels like a difficult transition, and yet it is very exciting for us to have such a beautiful adventure in our later life and experience living in a different city, looking for a nice place to live, decorating a new space and having fun exploring our new environment, it is rather thrilling.

Cath is happy we are going to be living closer and for us it will be lovely to get to know Joel better, as every time we see him we discover more and more the lovely man that he is.

For Mothers' Day Cathy surprised me with an SMS, 'I've got your Mother's Day present!' I was happy she had remembered, as she had her own big move happening, to their new house, and when I SMS'd back jokingly asking how long I had to wait for it, she SMS'd the following, 'In 2 weeks time u can wing yr way to spend a week with yr daughter and man in their new house. U keen?'

Well, hell, of course I am keen, and surprised, and thankful, and grateful, and spoilt, and loved. So I'll be on my way to Cape Town for a week in two week's time and, like a kid, am counting the days. Lovely to fly, lovely to be with Cath and Joel and see Nala (dog) and THE new house. Lovely to be in CT again and we will look at flats while I'm there. Maybe I can even find something straightaway.

But...as my Mom used to say (she was not always very positive), 'Life is a cake of sh*t, and everyday you eat a slice!' My slice of sh*t today was Tony being as sick as a dog, puking, headachy, weak, tired, cold and completely out of it and having to go to the hospital for his Barium Swallow X-ray. I half dragged him from the car park to the clinic and when it was his turn to go into the X-ray room, the room was freezing. He had on a jacket with a zipper but...not allowed to have metal while being X-rayed. So there's Tony lying with just a shirt, sick, white, looking into the distance and shaking from the cold. There was only one thing to do. I took my jacket off, zapped off my top (no zippers) and put it on him. Suddenly there I am standing in my little vest with three Radiologists staring, and the queue of people who are waiting, all staring (there's not much else to do in a queue). I felt a bit self-conscious (not too much) and casually put my outer jacket back on. 

Tony is now lying in bed with his electric blanket on. These symptoms are due to cortisone withdrawal as he is being weaned off slowly...a long story which I will not bore you with here. But hell, a slice of sh*t it sure is. Thanks Mom!

Chapel in the Mountains

A week is not very long but we made sure that we got the most out of it and planned a little routine for ourselves. So we would make breakfast and sit outside to have it looking out at the beautiful view and sharing small bits with feathered visitors, then we would do our work, all set up in the bedroom sitting typing next to each other, with odd comments flying around and lots of giggles. Then to recompense ourselves for having worked nicely we would take a drive to somewhere nice in the afternoon.

On one of these drives we went to a hotel a few kilometers away, driving through exquisite countryside and through a lovely African village where we were waved to by many children and smiled at by many of the villagers. Women with pitchers of water on their heads making their way slowly back from the river, children playing with homemade toys, older men sitting on old chairs outside their huts. It felt peaceful and tranquil.

We arrived at the hotel and walked around a bit before settling in to our lunch and came upon a beautiful little chapel nestling in a quiet spot in the hotel gardens. Inside, the view of the mountains was spectacular and I felt moved by the scene. If I were God, this is where I would live!

We found the dining area and a lovely spot outside on the terrace to have our lunch and a glass of wine. Lovely meal in a beautiful setting, who could wish for more?

The week was soon over and we drove back feeling happy to have been a part of this stunning setting, and having enjoyed every day with no exception.

Fun in the Berg

The Drakensberg mountains or uKhahlamba (the Barrier of Spears) is a 200-kilometre-long mountainous wonderland and was declared a world heritage site in December 2000.

Cath and I had booked a week there last year and were very excited at going on holiday together, just girls, looking forward to relaxing, sight-seeing, giggling a lot (of course) and eating a lot (of course).

The drive down went quickly it seemed, although we stopped a couple of times for the usual breakfast and coffee which we both love doing and another time just for coffee.

We arrived in the late afternoon, booked in at the Reception and were handed the keys to our chalet. We couldn't wait to see it. We drove down the mountain path, with a steep view on the one side and a forest on the other, and towards the end of it found our chalet which was to be our home for a week. All the chalets are 'A-line', built high on the slopes of the mountain.

(When we book into a place we have never been to it's always with slight trepidation that we insert the key in the lock for the first time.)

We walked in and explored. The views were magnificent from the lounge and bedroom and from the bedroom balcony , but inside the chalet felt a little old-fashioned, with dark furniture, but spacious all the same. We quickly unpacked, and went for a walk to discover our new surroundings. The hotel also had beautiful views and we soon found their terrace where they served light meals, coffee and drinks.  It was cold and wintery and the sharp icy wind stung our faces.

That evening neither of us felt like cooking and as we had noticed a little restaurant just at the entrance to our hotel, we decided to give it a try. Although it was quite close we drove there as we did not feel like braving the winding forest road in the dark on our way back, intrepid travelers that we are, (although I must admit that Cathy is a much braver explorer than I am.) When we arrived the restaurant doors were locked but we could see a couple of people inside. We knocked and a man opened for us, welcoming us in and telling us that they were really open, but that they had had a hold-up the night before and were taking precautions! We were the only ones in the restaurant all evening, feeling a bit anxious behind locked doors, but after a glass of wine or two, the fear subsided and we had a thoroughly good time. The food was not that great but as we were hungry, in a new place, anticipating a lovely week, that also did not matter much.

As we climbed into our little car we were glad we had driven there and not decided to walk. Sleepily and carefully we drove back to our chalet in the dark and were happy to lock the door behind us, feeling safe, and climb into our respective beds as we were tired, full and looking forward to what the morning would bring.

Goodbye Mauritius Until We Meet Again

The view from Plaisance Airport is beautiful and allows you to leave Mauritius with this picture still in your mind. Subdued at leaving but content at our fantastic holiday we sat at the airport admiring the mountains for the last time knowing that one day we would be back to once again bathe in the magic of l'Isle Maurice.

With thanks again to Monica for her campement and to Cathy for choosing us as her traveling companions.

The Last Days

Our holiday at the campement came to an end and we had decided to spend a couple of days at my aunt's boarding house. So, very reluctantly, we packed our bags and moved out of 'our' campement, said goodbye to Jocelyne and to the sea and off we went, just down the road to my aunt's. Cathy had her own little room downstairs and we had a lovely double room upstairs with a cosy balcony to sip wine and watch the waves, which we did quite a bit of...watching the waves, that is!

The views from our room were lovely and quite different to the campement. From our bed this is what we could see. It is a self-catering room with a little stove and kitchenette but we didn't use it as we had decided to give the food we had left to Jocelyne and just eat out for those last two days. On one evening we had a family supper with my aunt who, of course, served us a delicious chicken curry with lentils and rice. It was really nice to be with family. I had not seen them for a long time and there were some children that I had never even met.                                                                                                

 We slept well those two nights, listening to the waves which were not quite as loud as in the campement as they were not quite as close. 

The next morning we got up early to savor the view and the morning and after a quick read on our balcony, we went to have breakfast on the dining terrace.

Clement (who is tying up the blinds for the day and who has worked as a chef with my aunt for years and years) brought us steaming, strong coffee and Mauritian large, round, chewy, lovely rolls with butter and jam. I yet have to taste rolls as nice as Mauritian ones.

 The boarding house was quite busy with tourists in and out, wandering around, getting ready to do something for the day, wanting this, needing that, and generally doing what tourists do and that is being a pain in the butt! I was glad that we had had a lovely campement to ourselves for all those days and had not had to stay either in a boarding house full of tourists or an impersonal hotel. Somehow it would not have been the same.

Cathy smiles a lot, but particularly when there is food around!!!

On our last evening, we walked to the hotel close to the boarding house for dinner and to watch a show of sega dancers. Sega is the national dance of Mauritian creoles. On that particular night there was a buffet and the food was ample although not as good as we had expected and made, it seemed, particularly for tourists, so, mostly European food and nothing Creole, Indian or Chinese. At least they didn't serve chips and eggs for the UK visitors! The dancers though were full of passion and colour and danced with simplicity and joy. Later the guests were invited to join the dancers and dance the sega with them. Cathy had a ball and moved rhythmically and lithely to their music but her partner danced as stiffly as a broomstick.

Later that night, replete, danced-out, a bit tipsy, our heads full of the sega beat and colourful dresses, we wound our way back to the boarding house. It was pitch black on the street and apart from a few cars making their way home and a few stray dogs looking furtively at us, the streets were quiet and empty. Cathy went to her room happy to be getting into her bed and we sat one more time on our little balcony, in silence, appreciating the glow of the moon over the sea and filling our heads with this beautiful picture to take home with us to remember always.

Mahebourg Market on the Right Day

Mahebourg market day is a wonderful mix of colour, smells, cultures, languages, bargains, exotic foods and hot, spicy street food. It is busy and vibrant, filled with the locals who are always looking for a bargain as well as spices for their curries which are cheaper at the market, and tourists who throw themselves into the whole experience, some shyly, some raucously. 

We bought some inexpensive track pants for Tony, colourful earrings for me, beautiful vividly-coloured, soft, silky fabrics for Cathy who wanted them to decorate her apartment in a more Eastern way. Then we just spent a long time walking around and absorbing the peaceful energy of the place. People are not hurried, they are smiling, the women are feminine, they are friendly and often stop and ask you where you're from and what you think of Mauritius.

 

The market is set by the sea and the views from some spots are really stunning with the mountains in the background. The whole atmosphere is one of tranquility amid what looks sometimes like a bit of a chaotic mess.

 Cathy decided to try a dhalpurie from the vendors, which is Indian flat bread made with ground split peas or lentils into which is crammed hot, seasoned, usually red lentils. She took a bite and she said that immediately she felt as if her head and eyes were on fire, that's how hot it was and she had asked for a 'mild' one. But it's so good that you quickly get used to the hotness even though your tongue feels like it will never be the same again. Later in the holiday she was even brave enough to have another one.

 After the market we went back into the middle of town and found a Chinese restaurant and welcomed a cold beer followed by a delicious dish of noodles and chicken with vegetables.

We sat for a long time just looking out at a different type of life, loving it, loving the people and feeling quite at home in this very different setting.

We took the bus home with very noisy and excited school children already on it but who were very  quickly told by the conductor to stop their racket as there were 'visitors' on board. Very impressive. We were obviously the 'visitors' and got some dirty looks from the children but tried to give them sweet apologetic smiles as if to say: 'not our fault that you got reprimanded!'

Lunch with my Niece

Cathy had hired a car for a couple of days to get to her meetings and on one of those days we went to my niece for lunch, at her beautiful campement in Trou d'Eau Douce which is on the East Coast of the island. We were looking forward to seeing her and spending a bit of time with her and seeing her lovely home. Tony looks a bit thinnish and I look a bit fattish, a bit Laurel and Hardyish! The view from her campement is breath-taking and we had two lovely curries that her cook had prepared with rice and lentils and glorious French wine.When we arrived and drove through her gates we were confronted by a huge forest of palm trees and quite a few paths leading to different places with no real markings to tell us in which direction the main house was. She has a huge property and one really could get very lost among the palms and paths and forest but she came to fetch us on her quad bike. She welcomed us with a coconut each, opened at the top with a straw ready for the sipping. It was cold and refreshing and sweet and went down well after a hot, long and sometimes hairy drive. (Mauritians drive fast and their roads are narrow...not a good mixture!) We sat in her lovely thatched outdoor lounge and marveled at the incredible view all around us. So still and peaceful and islandy, not at all what we were used to in Johannesburg.

We chatted and caught up with news and Tony was able to get to know her a bit better which was nice for them. I had first met her on my honeymoon when I was 21 years old and she was 2 years old. She was a beautiful little girl then and she grew up to be a beautiful woman.

Next to her outdoor lounge was her outdoor dining room and that is where eating and drinking was done by all, followed by an espresso and a walk in their forest, after oodles of anti mosquito cream was smothered all over our bare parts. Tony decided he would rather sit and watch the boats and the sea and finish his wine peacefully without getting eaten by the insatiable mosquitoes. A very good choice!

After our hot lunch and hot walk Cathy had a cold swim in their pool and said she felt much better after that. Mymind boggled a bit after being shown their huge house and garden and grounds with every available comfort and luxury as well as a large catamaran moored a little way away, where they were going to celebrate the full moon with friends that weekend with loads of lobsters and presumably good wine and champagne. I have never experienced this kind of life as I come from a simple background and I marveled at the possibilities that money can offer but at the same time was quite happy and content with my own set of simpler possibilities. We had a lovely time and full, happy and French wined we made our way back to our campement at Pointe d'Esny and were all glad to settle quietly on our little porch and let a wonderful day end, while watching darkness slowly settle over the ocean.

A Smelly Neap Tide

Coming home one afternoon and coming down the drive to our campement, we were surprised by a very strong fishy, seaweedy rather unpleasant and pungent smell. We had no idea what it could be but going onto the porch we were suddenly awe-struck by what looked like rocks that had suddenly appeared out of the sea. The sea had retreated to uncover these smelly rocks covered by slimy seaweed. We asked Jocelyne why the tide was suddenly so low when it hadn't been all the time we were there and she explained that it was a neap tide and that it only occurred twice a month and we were lucky to see it. We didn't feel that lucky as the smell was really bad and the thought of going to sleep that night inhaling rotten fish was not particularly enticing! But little by little we got accustomed to it, and just like in life, where you get used to almost anything, even the bad things, it soon became part of our surroundings  so much so that we even sat outside, had a glass of wine and took 'photos of this strange sight.

I sat outside for a long time, silently, sipping wine and looking out and marveling at how this huge expanse of water which was full and so close to the campement yesterday can today look so far and diminished and how it uncovered and revealed all these hidden rocks and how much more lies beneath the ocean that no-one has seen.

After a while the moon appeared and the light changed to a dimmer, subtler and more gentle and romantic hue and I watched as the ocean began to reflect the light of the moon. All seemed quiet and subdued, and everything felt as if it was exactly as it should be. A perfect painting.

The moon? What moon?

Behind you, Tony, behind you!

We watched people walking on the beach past our campement, also curious to see what a neap tide looked like, and the moon became brighter and brighter and cast a more and more mysterious glow onto the ocean. Even though this picture is a little blurry, I love the light of the moon on the water and the peaceful mood twilight brings.

From the porch Tony and I accepted the kindly invitation our bench had offered and we moved gratefully into its welcoming energy to end our evening surrounded by beauty and spirit.